Finding the Czech Horse

So if you read the earlier post, you'd know I've been in search of the rare Czech Kladruby horse.

Well I found them today! About 50 km from Prague, by train, plus about 4 km of walking to the National Stud--owned by the government, which keeps the bloodlines of five Kladrubys going strong. There are hundreds of white, grey and black horses there, in a somewhat rough-around-the-edges but once grand palace and stables. The horses have prominent roman noses but otherwise resemble outsized Andulasians. That's their origin, in fact. The Kladruber were used as carriage horses--white for royalty and black for church functions, from the 17th century until today. During the war and the Soviet occupation, not much happened in Czech equestrian sports, but nowadays (that the Czech republic is part of the EU), there is a very real effort to bring up the interest in all things equine. There are hundreds of acres of fields, cross country jumps, and carriage driving obstacles, and the whole town of Kladruby bad Ladem (don't forget the last two words if you want to get to the right town...see earlier post!)

Perhaps they should start with having a tour guide at the national stud that speaks English, French, or even just enough "horse German" for the average horsey tourist. But outside of Prague its pretty much all Czech, all the time. The tour is short--only an hour or so, and brings you right up against the mares, the stallions, the tack rooms, and the indoor school (with chandalier). Thankfully the tour guide doesn't much keep track of her charges, and seems pretty unfazed when you split off from the group to pet the newborn filly (VERY friendly), or take a scenic photograph. The horses are all quite friendly, and seem pretty used to tourists petting on them. As far as actual information about the horses and their origins, the history of the stud and so forth, you pretty much have to rely on a poorly translated brochure you buy in the Soviet-bloc style building next door to the church and stables. And even more unforntunately, we get no information at all about the rather stunning buildings that surround the stable.

So if you happen to be in prague and want a fun day trip (although its only 50 km, the train takes 1:45, if not more (the modernazation of the Czech railway is going very slowly and runs erratically) check out the kladrubys, only bring a Czech friend along to translate.

Although it doesn't take long to see the main stables, I recommend (if you're in the neighborhood) walking some of the trails-- you're bound to see a find collection of mares, a few different stables, maybe some riders out working some of the horses on the tree-line lanes.